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This is the second piece in our journey into traditional crafts that care for both the environment and our well-being. The first explored mud dyeing, through an interview with Gondé Abdoulaye, an artisan of CABES. In this second piece, we are looking at batik, which holds a special place in Burkina Faso’s craftsmanship.
Characterized by its use of wax-resist patterns and layered colors, batik transforms cotton into bold, expressive designs that speak to both tradition and contemporary artistry. The method is deliberate and time-intensive. A design is drawn by hand, then covered with hot wax to block out areas of fabric. The cloth is dipped in dye, dried, and reworked in repeated cycles. When the wax is finally removed, patterns emerge that carry both symbolic weight and striking visual appeal.
Zeda Roger has practiced batik since 1993 as a member of CABES (Commerce et Artisanat, pour le Bien Être Social), EFI’s social enterprise partner in Burkina Faso. Founded in 2014, CABES supports artisans with access to organic cotton, GOTS-certified dyes, and safer working materials. The organization also sustains Faso Dan Fani, Burkina Faso’s emblematic handwoven textile, while promoting environmentally responsible production. Within this framework, Roger continues to develop the batik tradition, combining inherited techniques with new ideas to keep the practice relevant.
In the conversation that follows, he reflects on the technical demands of batik, the innovations that expand its possibilities, and the ways the craft has shaped his life.
Interview with Zeda Roger – Burkina Faso, 2025
EFI: What are the steps in the batik dyeing process?
Zeda Roger: I begin by sketching a design in pencil, then trace over it with a wax pencil. With wax, I cover the areas of the fabric that should remain undyed. Next, I dip the cloth into the dye so that only the uncovered parts take on color. After drying the fabric in the sun, I scrape off the wax and repeat the process as many times as needed, applying wax to new sections and dyeing again until I achieve the desired colors. Once the final colors are set and the fabric is dry, I immerse it in hot water to temper it. The heat melts the wax completely, leaving behind the finished design.
There are two types of batik. The older, non-washable type was treated with petroleum: after dyeing, the cloth was washed in petroleum and the wax scraped off with a tool. The dyes used were natural, and the petroleum acted as a fixative. And the second type is the more common washable batik, done with water. The dyes, imported from Germany, are the same as those used for dyeing basins. Many colors are achieved by repeated dipping: starting with the lightest shade and deepening it gradually. For example, yellow is a weak color, but by layering dips you can obtain orange and eventually red.
EFI: What type of wax is used in the batik technique on cotton?
Z.R.: I buy wax that comes from Côte d’Ivoire. It is solid candle wax, which I melt before applying.
EFI: How do you manage the wastewater from the dyeing process?
Z.R.: The wastewater is collected in septic tanks at the center, and then reused as fertilizer for plants.
EFI: What are the key factors – temperature, pH, soaking time, dye concentration – to ensure high-quality, consistent dyeing?
Z.R.: I use lukewarm water so the wax doesn’t melt. The fabric should soak for about 30 minutes. The dye concentration depends on the size of the cloth. For example, for a 1m x 1m piece of fabric, I use one teaspoon of dye, one and a half liters of water, half a teaspoon of caustic soda, and one teaspoon of hydro fix.
“Batik has changed my life. Since childhood, I have always loved drawing, and today that passion allows me to support my family.” – Zeda Roger
EFI: Are you working on new techniques or improvements in the batik method?
Z.R.: Yes. For example, in traditional batik you cannot see red on top of blue. I experimented with retouching by brush to make this possible. By combining techniques, you can achieve several colors and even abstract effects. I use these innovations mainly in batik paintings, not in clothing, since garments need to withstand washing.
EFI: How long does training in batik take?
Z.R.: Training lasts around three months if the person already knows how to draw. In that case, one month is devoted to drawing and two months to dyeing.
EFI: How do you access the market?
Z.R.: I sell my work through exhibitions and online contacts with buyers abroad. I once had the opportunity to exhibit in France but couldn’t travel because of visa issues, so I sent the pieces instead.
EFI: How has batik improved your life?
Z.R.: Batik has changed my life. Since childhood, I have always loved drawing, and today that passion allows me to support my family. I can pay for my children’s schooling and also help others – you don’t need to be rich to share what you have. For example, with an order I received from CAMPER, I was able to build a house. Before that, I was renting, and my children often complained. When my eldest daughter earned her high school diploma, I told her we would move into our own home, and I was also able to buy her a motorcycle.
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